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Wednesday, June 3, 2015

Mazatlán's Unique Cathedral

Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, Mazatlan MX

Mazatlán, a city on the west coast of Mexico in Sinaloa state, remained a small fishing village until the mid-19th century;  development did not really begin until the early 20th century.  It's Cathedral, the Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception was begun in 1855 by the order of Bishop Pedro Loza y Pardavé and then stopped in 1856 due to the start of political and military turmoil in the region.  Construction began once again in 1875 under the direction of Padre Miguel Lacarra working with bricklayer Estanislao Léon,
carpenter Santiago Léon and iron-worker Isaac Léon. 


Main Altar, Cathedral Basilica of Mazatlan MX
The cathedral has the altars typical of a Mexican cathedral, such as this guilded baroque main altar, as well as several side altars. The interior of the cathedral has evolved with reconstructions over the years and now is a good deal more ornate than in its original state.The mudejar influence is an interesting feature and the Star of David windows make it truly unique.


Mudejar Influence: 
Although its architecture is basically gothic, a significant mudejar or moorish influence is noted and this starts with the building façade. It should be noted that the country of Spain was under Islamic rule for a number of centuries and what we think of as Islamic or moorish was the dominant cultural influence in Spain reaching into all areas of life for its inhabitants- Christian, Jewish and Muslim, alike.  Note the similarities in design between the façade of Mazatlan's Cathedral and an interior feature of the medieval El Transito synagogue in Toledo, Spain, which was converted into a church after the 1492 expulsion of the Jews from Spain. 



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Interior of El Transito Synagogue, Toldeo Spain
Some of the interior brickwork resembles that found on the Cathedral of Cordoba Spain, 
that before the reconquest of Spain by the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella had been a mosque.  


Window, Mazatlan Cathedral


Cathedral-Mosque of Cordoba Spain

Take a look at the similarity of the color scheme in this window from the Mazatlán Cathedral 


Window, Mazatlán Cathedral, Mazatlán, MX


and a door in Fez, Morocco.
Door, Fez Morocco




Star of David Windows:
By now you have noticed that there are stained glass windows bearing the Star of David, sometimes called the Shield of David,  in the Mazatlán Cathedral.  In fact there are 28 of them, making it the only Roman Catholic Cathedral in the world like this. These windows are quite prominent and visible both from the inside and outside of the building.


Detail of Star of David Window, Cathedral Basilica of Mazatlan, Mazatlan, MX




Interior of Dome located above altar, Cathedral Basilica, Mazátlan MX


Side Window, Cathedral Basilica of Mazátlan, MX


Side view, Cathedral Basilica of Mazátlan, MX

It does seem strange to see a primary symbol of Judaism so prominently displayed in a Roman Catholic cathedral. The explanation offered is that at some point in time, when the Cathedral needed money for construction, a Jewish donor stepped forward and gave the money and the windows were placed in gratitude for the gift. There is no record of this individual's identity or when the donation was made. Judging from early church photos and construction records the Star of David windows were  installed after 1929

 Although today the Star of David is generally understood to be a symbol of Judaism,  this has not always been the case.  What we call the Star of David had its origins as an Arabic symbol and was used as a protective amulet by Muslims and Jews alike.  The symbol is seen in some medieval churches in Europe such as in the Cathedral of Valencia Spain, which dates from the 13th century.

Valencia Cathedral, Valencia Spain,

Scholar Gershom Scholem has written a very interesting history of the Star of David symbol   According to him, the use of the Star of David as a symbol of Judaism did not become popular until the 19th century and it only became definitive when it was chosen as a symbol of Zionism at the Basle Conference in 1897.   

According to J. Trinidad Hernández Dávila, a clergyman and historian of the Mazátlan Cathedral, the windows do reference Judaism, and are a reminder of the Jewish roots of Catholicism and of the fact that its founder was a Jew.  In a country like Mexico where some 10% of the population is estimated to be of Jewish origins, these windows have a special resonance. *

*( In 1492, Spain's Jews were given the choice of exile or conversion and many chose the latter.  Yet, these conversos, as they were known, were continually suspected of practicing Judaism and lived under the threat of the Inquisition.  Under these circumstance some chose to move to the New World and were among the first settlers of Mexico. After religious freedom was instituted in Mexico in the 1860's some conversos began to return to Judaism, but many remained within the Catholic Church.)























Tuesday, May 19, 2015

The Trinity in Colonial Latin American Art

The doctrine of the Trinity sets Christianity apart from the two other Abrahamic faiths, Judaism and Islam.  Both of these are adamant in their insistence that God is One and reject Christianity's trinitarian formulation that God is three persons- Father, Son and Holy Spirit- in one person.  The idea of Trinity is not directly found in the Bible, but was a doctrine arrived at in the councils of the early Church and formalized at the Council of Nicea in 325 A.D.  

Throughout the history of art, there have been different ways of depicting the idea of the Trinity, of visually spelling-out the complex theological notion of three persons in one. The importance of teaching images surged with the Spanish Conquest because there was, suddenly, a large indigenous population that needed to be indoctrinated in Christianity. How could the clergy charged with the conversion explain the Trinity to someone who had never heard of the concept? Images were central in this, as they were with all facets of the conversion.  Here are some of those images.

Jesus Seated at the Right Hand of the Father:
 One type derives directly from the New Testament where the Gospel of Mark describes Jesus ascending into Jesus heaven and then sitting at the right hand of the Father.  Scripture also describes the Holy Spirit descending in the form of a dove upon Jesus at his baptism (present in all four gospels), hence the depiction of a bird in representations of the Trinity.
All of these elements are a part of the following representations.




Basilica of Guadelupe, Mexico City


Itizimna Church, Merida, MX




Mexico
Throne of Mercy:

A variant of Trinity iconography, known as the "Throne of Mercy",  developed in medieval Europe.  In this, God is portrayed as sitting on a throne, wearing a Papal tiara and holding the crucified figure of Jesus; the dove is also seen. Father presents his dying Son on the cross to the viewer. On the cross sits a dove, the symbol of the Holy Spirit because when he was baptized Jesus "saw the Spirit of God descending as a dove" (Matthew 3:16, Mark 1:10, Luke 3:22, John 1:32).  Frequently, as in the first two photos there is an orb representing the world that God created with the implication of his rulership over all.




San Jeronimo Tlacochahuaya, Oaxaca





Merida Cathedral, Merida, MX



Three Identical Men:
Another version of  Trinity iconography portrayed  three identical men. This form had precedents in medieval European art, but more or less disappeared when it regained popularity in the Spanish colonies. However, it was condemned in the 18th century by
Pope Benedict XIV but remained a popular form in New Mexico which was so far from the cultural centers of the Mexico that it developed its own unique art forms. (for more about New Mexican religious art visit the Sept. 6, 2014 post of this blog "Understanding New Mexico's Santos  http://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2014/09/understanding-new-mexicos-santos.html).  







Templo de San Matias Jalatlaco, Oaxaca MX




Oaxaca MX
by Pedro Antonio Fresquis, 19th century New Mexico




by José Manuel Benavides, New Mexico, 19th century New Mexico



Three-faced Trinity:

A related iconographic type had a single human figure with three faces. There were examples of this in Europe, but these were attacked by the Church and in the 17th century were forbidden by Pope Urban VIII. In the New World, further from Papal surveillance, these images became most popular in South America.



Colonial Peru


Colonial Colombia- painter Gregorio Vasquez de Arce y Ceballos

The painter Ceballos is said to have been the innovator of the Trinity with four eyes and three faces in one.  This iconography of the Trinity was condemned by the Church as heretical because it resembled three-faced depictions of Hindu deities.  Despite this censuring, such images of the Trinity remained popular in the Latin American world throughout the colonial period.  The painting from Colonial Peru differs from that of Ceballos, although all such images were rejected by the Church.

Trinity Iconography as a teaching tool:
The Christian church is resolute in its insistence that God is one but yet three and the resulting  theological construct of Trinity is a very complex idea, one that is often difficult to communicate, even to Christians.  Painted and sculpted images of the Trinity were not unique to the Spanish Colonial world, but were copied or developed from European prototypes with the exception of a few unique images such as that of Ceballos above.  The Trinity has never been an easy idea to get across to people, particularly people who are brand-new to Christianity. 

The Spanish clerics charged with the massive task of converting the newly-conquered indigenous peoples faced major communication problems due to the language barrier, and also because the new ideas they were teaching were different from established religious beliefs.  As in all facets of this massive conversion process, sculpted and painted images were the central teaching tools. The images in this post were some of the "books"
used in this process.







Monday, April 6, 2015

Video: Holy Saturday Procession

There is little that matches the splendor and intensity of Holy Week processions.  While many countries have sorts of processions around the time of Easter, those in Spain are the most elaborate, some having histories that date to the late middle ages.  When the Spaniards came to the New World they brought their traditions, including these 
processions; those in Antigua, Guatemala have stayed very true to their Spanish precedents.



Procession of Jesus del Milagro from San Felipe de Jesus Church, Antigua Guatemala


Holy Week processions are typically viewed from the street with great crowds thronging the route.  But even more interesting is seeing a procession as it begins inside of home church, the place where it starts and to which many hours later it will return.  It is difficult to get inside  a church to see the start of a procession, but below is a link to my video  that takes you inside a church to do this. The procession is from Holy Saturday, the day before Easter, in San Felipe de Jesus Church, Antigua Guatemala.  The focus of the procession is the main figure on the float, Virgen de la Soledad, a variant of the Virgin of Sorrows, the grieving mother of Jesus.


Holy Saturday Procession; San Felipe de Jesus Church, Antigua Guatemala
Here is the link to the video and I hope you enjoy it.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAznN3wsbE4


Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Videos of Holy Week in Latin America

 Jesus in procession, Holy Thursday, Merida, MX


Virgen de Dolores in procession, Holy Thursday, Merida, MX

Holy Week, the period of time from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday and when the central story of Christianity culminates, is observed with greater intensity in Latin America than elsewhere.  Celebrations there are on a grand scale and the story of Jesus' Passion unfolds in processions and pageantry.  What the outside world only hears in readings of the Gospel there can be seen in vivid color.  Here are a few videos links which will offer you a look into  Holy Week observances in Latin America.

Attend a very unique Holy Saturday religious service in Merida, Mexico in which Jesus  is resurrected in light.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMzCIxbLHWA

Participate in a Holy Wednesday Procession in rural San Mateo Milpas Altas, Guatemala.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIT5Wg5JNZE

Witness a Good Friday re-enactment of Jesus' Crucifixion in front of a Mayan pyramid in Acanceh, MX.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCVbI_aww6s


Wednesday, March 25, 2015

The Anatomy of a Sawdust Carpet: Lent in Antigua, Guatemala (includes video link)

Carpet in progress,  Antigua Guatemala

The sawdust carpets that grace the streets and churches of Antigua during the season of Lent (Ash Wednesday-Easter Day) are as beautiful as any valuable oriental rug that you can find.  But these magnificent carpets have a very short life-span, sometimes only a few hours, although those created in churches for the vigils of the season are on display longer. The carpets in Antigua's streets are created by the residents and businesses; if a procession passes by your home or business, you have the option of creating a carpet in honor of it. Sometimes these carpets involve months and months or planning while others are created much more spontaneously.  Holy Week ( Palm Sunday-Easter Day) is the time when there are the most processions and greatest number of carpets.



Sawdust Carpet detail, Antigua Guatemala

As exquisite as these carpets are, they are not meant to be decorations and exist for one reason only: to be walked on by the feet of those bearing holy images in procession. All processions start in a church and then follow an hours-long route throughout the city's streets, often late into the night.  In the course of its route each of the processions you see below walked over many carpets that were created specifically for it. The act of the float-carriers walking over the carpet is considered to bless the carpet and the whole making of carpets is, at heart, a sacrificial act offered to God.


Holy Saturday Procession, San Felipe de Jesus Church, Antigua Guatemala

Holy Week Procession, Antigua Guatemala


Holy Week Procession, Antigua Guatemala
All of the carpets begin with an empty space either on the street or a church floor.  A rectangle of sand is spread on the surface to provide a base for the carpet.  The designs that will be laid on top of it are intricate and precision is essential. 


Sawdust Carpet under construction, Antigua Guatemala

Designs are not done freehand, but use pre-cut stencils of heavy cardboard that are used in various combinations to create the intricate geometry of the carpets. The stencils are quite costly and good quality ones are cut by hand, not machine and are meant to be used year after year.


Stencil for Sawdust Carpet, Antigua Guatemala


Stencil for Sawdust Carpet, Antigua Guatemala

Stencil for Sawdust Carpet, Antigua Guatemala


Making Stencils for Sawdust Carpets, Antigua Guatemala

The stencils are laid on the sawdust base and colored sawdust is applied to form intricate designs that in many cases look like actual oriental carpets.


Sawdust Carpet under construction, Antigua Guatemala

Sawdust Carpet under construction, Antigua Guatemala


Eventually the carpet you see under construction will have a very densely patterned surface and look something like the carpet below.  After the sawdust is laid the carpets are sprayed with water to set the design.


Sawdust Carpet, Antigua Guatemala

Carpets are created within churches during the time of the vigils which are held to honor the statues that will be used in procession. These carpets range from the relatively simple to the very complex as seen in the photo below in Antigua's La Merced Church.  This carpet was created for a velacion, a vigil, and remains up for a period of time, perhaps a week or two.  The scene in front of the religious figures are made to resemble a garden, huerto in Spanish.
The fruits, vegetables and candles are brought to the church as an offering before the scene is created.


Sawdust Carpet and Huerto for vigil, La Merced Church, Antigua  Guatemala
All of the carpets will be destroyed the instant the feet of those in the procession hit it and there is no sense that these carpets are meant to be preserved.  A carpet is made to be walked on by a processions and the holy images that are carried in it.   


Sawdust Carpet after procession, San Felipe de Jesus Church, Antigua Guatemala





Sawdust Carpet after procession, San Felipe de Jesus Church, Antigua Guatemala

I invite you to view my video of these carpets at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TbXvvBSCvSA

Not all of Antigua's carpets are made of sawdust; some are made of plant materials
and this type pre-dates the Spanish conquest.  You can still see sacramental ground-coverings of pine needles in small, isolated Mayan villages.  The fourth carpet down combines colored sawdust and flowers.


Carpet, Antigua Guatemala

Carpet, Antigua Guatemala

Carpet, Antigua Guatemala

Sawdust and Flower Carpet, Antigua Guatemala

Sawdust Carpet, Antigua Guatemala

Sawdust Carpet, Antigua Guatemala

Sawdust Carpet detail, Antigua Guatemala


Sawdust Carpet, Antigua Guatemala