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Monday, January 14, 2019

Colorado's Oldest Church: Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO

Our Lady of Guadalupe Church, Conejos, CO


Colorado is more than the Rockies and ski hills.  Going south, as you get closer to northern New Mexico, there is more and more of the Spanish influence that reflects the area's Mexican heritage. Until it was conceded to the United States by Mexico at the end of the Mexican American War in 1848, Colorado was a part of Mexico.  The first permanent settlement in Colorado's San Luis Valley, where present-day Conejos is situated, was in 1850 and the first Mass in Colorado was held in Conejos in 1857.

History of the Church:
The early settlers of the Conejos area were Mexicans. In 1856 they dedicated a church to the Virgin of Guadalupe on a spot near present-day Conejos.  After the Conejos river flooded in 1857, Bishop Lamy, first Bishop of Santa Fe, New Mexico, advised that the church be moved south of the river on the same spot that the current-day church stands. The finished church was dedicated in 1863.  In 1878 the decision was made to improve the church façade and add two towers.  Originally administered by Jesuits, in 1920 jurisdiction was transferred to the Theatine order.

On Ash Wednesday 1926 the church was destroyed by a fire and the decision was made to rebuild it on the same spot. The old towers were left as an historical monument, but later taken down because of the hazards these unstable structures presented.  Ninety years after the first fire, in 2016 there was yet another fire in the church; this one was less destructive.



Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO
Façade Detail, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO

The Present Building:
The architect for the 1927 building is not known.  When the decision was made to raze the towers in 1948, John K. Monroe Sr. of Lakewood Colorado was brought in as the designer of the new façade. The resulting building was more elaborate than the other simpler churches in the area and researcher Tom Simmons of Front Range Research Associates,  in Denver believes that Monroe was striving for a building in the Spanish Colonial Revival style, with the 1794 Albuquerque Church being a possible influence.

The Interior:
View toward Front Altar, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO
View toward Choir Loft and Back of Church, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO
Front Altar, Our Lady of Guadalupe Church, Conejos, CO

The church has a simple interior with a single aisle and a more-or-less baroque main altar, that I believe was either replaced or restored after the 2016 fire. I had visited the church a few years prior to this and there have been interior changes since this fire. 

Small Altar to right of front altar, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO

The most remarkable features of the church are its stained glass windows, which Tom Simmons points out are unexpected since Conejos is in a relatively poor area of Colorado. 
These beautiful windows were created by Frank Watkins of Denver for the 1927 building and reflect the artistic style of the era. Watkins Stained Glass Studios, operating since 1868, still are in production.

Stained-Glass Windows, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO
Stained-Glass Windows, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos CO
Stained-Glass Window, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO
Stained-Glass Window, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO
 Stained-Glass Window, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO
Stained-Glass Window, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO
Window Detail, Our Lady of Guadalupe Church, Conejos, CO

Interestingly, in Mexican Churches, there is an occasional Byzantine Icon.  The precise origin of the icon in the Conejos church is not know, but please click this link to my article for more information about these icons in Mexican Churches https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2016/07/east-meets-west-greek-icon-in-mexican.html

Byzantine-style Icon, Our Lady of Conejos Church, Conejos, CO
Visiting the Conejos Church:
Conejos is a 4 1/2 hour drive from Denver, so a visit there is better combined with other activities in the area.   Conejos is less than 3 hours from Santa Fe, NM, so visiting this historical gem of a church en route to New Mexico is one (and my) strategy.   If you happen to be in Aspen area in the summer or fall, there is a fast back route over Independence Pass that gets you to Conejos in under 4 hours and from there onto Santa Fe, about 21/2 hours.

Thanks go to Tom Simmons of Front Range Research Associates, providing me with background information for this post.

Wednesday, December 12, 2018

The Feast of Guadalupe

Virgen de Guadalupe
Today, throughout Mexico, is the feast of the Virgin of Guadalupe, its Patron Saint.
The day is observed in many ways, with processions, masses and, in some parts of the country, with long-distance journeys made by individuals to honor a promise made to Guadalupe.  Please click the link to see the unique way in which the day is marked in the state of Quintana Roo on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula-

https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2017/12/the-race-for-guadalupe.html


Monday, November 19, 2018

Thanksgiving, Olé: Colonial Spain and the First Thanksgiving

                                                       

Could there be anything more "all-American" than our Thanksgiving Day?  Pilgrims and Indians joining hands in a feast that heralded a new nation.  Turns out that, as is so often the case with history, we need to think again.  Without the roundabout intervention of Colonial Spain, there might never have been a Thanksgiving Day, at all.
Please click the link to see what this is all about.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2015/12/colonial-spain-and-first-thanksgiving.html

Wednesday, October 24, 2018

Take a Tour of Dia de los Muertos Without Leaving Your Home

Items for Dia de los Muertos Altars, Oaxaca, MX
Dia de los Muertos links the living and the dead for a short while, October 31-November 3, and is one of the visually most striking celebrations in all of Mexico.  Click this link and take a tour of Dia de los Muertos throughout Mexico.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2017/10/a-dia-de-los-muertos-odyssey.html



Man with relative's skull, Pomuch, Campeche, MX

By far, the most unique Dia de los Muertos is in Pomuch in the state of Campeche, where they actually take out the bones of dead ancestors to clean them, as seen above.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2016/12/pomuch-campeche-dia-de-los-muertos-you.html

Hope you enjoy your tour!



Wednesday, September 19, 2018

The Church Ruins of Antigua, Guatemala

La Recolleción, Antigua, Guatemala

The churches of Mexico and all of Latin America are vibrant places, and retain their vibrancy even in a ruined state.  The church ruins I wrote about several years ago, in the state of Quintana Roo, are just one example. 
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2013/07/tihosuco-san-martiniano-other-mayan.html



Oaxaca Cathedral, Oaxaca MX

Buildings in many places in Latin America are at-risk from the frequent earthquakes in these zones of frequent seismic activity.  In fact, this environment prompted a new style of architecture that would be more earthquake resistant.  The Oaxaca Cathedral in Oaxaca Mexico typifies the solidity with which these churches have been built. There are none of the slender bell-towers and sky-grazing spires of churches in other places; these churches are rock-solid. Please follow the link below to learn more about this "Earthquake Baroque" architectural style.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2013/04/oaxacan-baroque-environment-and.html


Yet, even the most stringent architectural guidelines are not a guarantee; Latin America  bears testimony to the destructive power of earthquakes. The churches of Antigua, Guatemala are one case in point.  Although the original structures are gone, some of their outline and all of their spirit remains.  It is impossible to walk through a church ruin without sensing it is still a holy place.

San Jose Cathedral Cloisters:


Cloister ruins of San Jose Cathedral, Antigua, Guatemala
The Antigua (San Jose)  Cathedral has been damaged by earthquakes since the original church was built in 1541.  It was rebuilt and consecrated in 1680 and then again seriously damaged again in the earthquake of 1773. The church has since been rebuilt, but the cloisters have not and these cloister ruins remain a beautiful tribute to the past. 


Cloister ruins of San Jose Cathedral, Antigua, Guatemala

Church of Santo Domingo

This former Dominican Monastery dates from 1538 and was destroyed in the 1773 Santa Maria earthquake that destroyed the San Jose Cathedral.  Today, the old church-convent is a cultural complex that includes a museum and a hotel.  


Santo Domingo Convent ruins, Antigua, Guatemala




Santo Domingo Convent ruins, Antigua, Guatemala




Santo Domingo Convent ruins, Antigua, Guatemala


La Recolección:

This mission complex built by the order of Recollects in 1717 included classrooms, a library, hospital and cloisters. It was damaged by an earthquake in 1751 then largely destroyed in the major Santa Maria earthquake in 1773.  Today it is surrounded by a park. The mission remains hauntingly beautiful in its destroyed state.


La Recolección ruins, Antigua, Guatemala


La Recolección ruins, Antigua, Guatemala
La Recolección ruins, Antigua,Guatemala

La Recolección ruins, Antigua, Guatemala
La Recolección ruins, Antigua, Guatemala

Why Visit Church Ruins?
Churches, like the human beings they are built to serve, have an interdependent physical and spiritual component.  Even when their physical structure is destroyed, what they were and what they meant to people remains.  This is what makes church ruins such compelling places.  They are places of spiritual memory, something that cannot be destroyed.  Touring the church ruins of Antigua, Guatemala, or anywhere else, is as valuable experience as visiting the functioning churches themselves.















Monday, July 30, 2018

Oaxaca Comes to Life in a Procession: a new video

Add caption
This past February I wrote about a colorful group reunion that took the form of a procession on the streets of Oaxaca City.  https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2018/02/a-reunion-oaxaca-style.html.  I have now have made a video of this event, which brings the beautiful Tehuana costumes to life and gives viewers an opportunity to see the incredible Colonial architecture of the city as the procession moves along its streets.

 My video is available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygn9Vth640M.


Friday, May 4, 2018

The Music of Holy Week Processions: Guatemala and Nicaragua (with video)

Float from Holy Week Procession, Granada Nicaragua

Holy Week processions in Latin America are visually phenomenal, but they are more than just beautiful and moving  visual imagery.  Their sounds set the tone and music written especially for these solemn processions is an important part of the pageantry.    Holy Week processional music is funeral music that helps create the somber mood of the impending death of Jesus on Good Friday.   For the most part they are marches that give a sense of drive and movement to the processions. Please watch my video to hear some of this music, as well as see the sights.
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXAqJQiRP7U&t=18s
Although there are some variations from area to area, the basic musical genre remains the same.

In the video, you saw footage of the Viacrucis Aquatic, a unique water-borne procession of the Way of the Cross on Lake Nicaragua in Granada Nicaragua, The photos below are from this procession and you will notice musical instruments in the second photo, the band for the procession.  They play the distinct funeral marches written specifically for Holy Week  For a more in-depth look at the Viacrucis Aquatic, please visit-https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2018/04/via-crucis-aquatic-granada-nicaragua.html


Lead float bearing image of Jesus, Viacrucis Aquatic, Granada Nicaragua

Processional Band, Viacrucis Aquatic, Granada Nicaragua

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