Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Nicaragua

Good Friday Procession, Sutiaba, Leon Nicaragua

Nicaragua is typically not on the top of most peoples' lists to visit during Holy Week. That is a mistake because it has some of to have some of the most beautiful and dramatic observances in all of Latin America.  Here are just a few photos:

Holy Figures on Display, Granada Nicaragua

Procession of Carretas, Massaya, Nicaragua 

Procession, Granada Nicaragua

I invite you to experience the Nicaragua's unique Semana Santa in a series of posts that I have written.  Please click on each link to see the post.

Holy Wednesday, Nandaime Nicaragua:

Participant in Holy Wednesday event, Nandaime, Nicaragua

In Nandaime a small town, each week on Holy Wednesday the ancient ritual of Holy Week Flagellants is re-enacted with an interesting twist.  You can see this at:

https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2016/04/taking-hit-holy-wednesday-in-nandaime.html


Along the Road in Massaya, Nicaragua:

Transporting Processional Figure, Masaya, Nicaragua

Holy Week is a time when the sacred dimension more closely intermingles with that of everyday life in fascinating ways:

https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2016/06/sacred-meets-profane-holy-wednesday-in.html


The Huertos of Nicaragua:

Huerto, Diria Massaya, Nicaragua

Constructing a Huerto, Diria Massaya, Nicaragua

The huertas (translation- orchards), constructed during Holy Week in both Nicaragua and Guatemala are gorgeous creations using the fruits of the earth.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2017/04/the-huertos-of-guatemala-and-nicaragua.html

Sutiaba's Sawdust Carpets:

Sawdust Carpet under Construction, Sutiaba barrio, Leon Nicaragua

Like their cousins, the famed sawdust carpets of Antigua Guatemala, those of the Sutiaba barrio in Leon, Nicaragua are magnificent, filled with religious passion, but constructed in a very different way.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2017/05/art-as-sacrifice-sawdust-carpets-of.html

Via Crucis Aquatic:

Via Crucis Aquatic, Lake Nicaragua, Granada, Nicaragua

The absolutely most unique Holy Week event in all of Latin America is Granada's Via Crucis Aquatic, a stations of the cross done on boats.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2018/04/via-crucis-aquatic-granada-nicaragua.html


The Music of Holy Week:

Holy Week Procession, Granada, Nicaragua

Sound is a part of Holy Week processions, in particular, the music which is especially composed for these events.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2018/05/the-music-of-holy-week-processions.html

Yucatán Gold: Churches of Halachó, Yucatán and Sabancuy, Campeche

Chapel, San Mateo Peto Yucatan

Driving across the Yucatán Peninsula you will pass a church in nearly every town.  Many have no identifying signs, such as the small chapel above in San Mateo, a hamlet which lies about halfway in-between Merida and Campeche.  One common denominator is that many of them are painted the bright yellow color that has come to be known as Yucatán Gold.

Sources seem to agree that Maya beliefs are the main reason for the pervasive use of yellow. This color was associated with the Sun God as well as being symbolic of corn, a very important component of Maya mythology and believed to be the substance out of which human beings were made. There could be other, pragmatic, factors involved such as ready availability of the pigments that make yellow paint, but this has not written about.

Santiago Apôstol, Halachô, Yucatan and Sagrada Corazón de Jesus, Sabancuy Campeche and are both examples of rural Yucatan peninsula church architecture, far more simple than the baroque design found in urban centers.

Santiago Apóstol, Halachó Yucátan:

Santiago Apôstol, Halachô, Yucatan

Santiago Apôstol, Halachô, Yucatan

This church has roots that date back to 1635 when a small chapel was built on the site that it now occupies. The actual church was begun in the late 17th to early 18th century. One of its bells bears the date 1728 and the baptismal font is dated 1739.  Santiago Apostól Church suffered some damage during the fighting of the revolutionary movement of 1915.

Church Front View, Santiago Apóstol, Halachó, Yucatan

Main Altar dedicated to the apostle, St. James (Santiago), Santiago Apóstol, Halachó, Yucatan

Back View, Santiago Apóstol, Halachó, Yucatan

The church is fairly large and there are a number of side altars and a chapel for adoration of the Sacrament.

Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, Santiago Apóstol, Halachó, Yucatan

Altar of the Blessed Sacrament, Santiago Apóstol,  Halachó, Yucatan

Guadalupe Altar,  Santiago Apóstol, Halachó, Yucatan

Sagrada Corazon de Jesus, Sabancuy Campeche:

Front Façade, Sagrada Corazon de Jesus, Sabancuy, Campeche

Sagrada Corazon de Jesus, Sabancuy, Campeche

 Sagrada Corazon was built piecemeal over a period time dating back about 200 years. The main hall was built in the 1800's, one tower was built in 1952 and the other in 1994.  In modern times, at one point, it was in a deteriorated  condition, with decaying walls and roof.  Subsequently it has been restored and is now in good condition.

Church Interior, Sagrada Corazon de Jesus,  Sabamcuy. Campeche

Front Altar, Sagrada Corazon de Jesus, Sabancuy, Campeche

View toward rear of Church, Sagrada Corazon de Jesus, Sabancuy, Campeche

The deteriorated roof was replaced with one of corrugated metal.

Corrugated Metal Roof, Sagrada Corazon de Jesus, Sabancuy, Campeche

The Divino Niño Jesus, a common devotion in Mexico and throughout Latin America, stems from devotion to the Christ Child.  The statue of the Divino Niño is that of a young child, although the age portrayed can differ slightly. 

Side Chapel of Divino Niño Jesus, Sagrada Corazon de Jesus, Sabancuy, Campeche

Images of the Trinity in Latin American are unique because they give physical form to what elsewhere is an abstract theological concept.  Here, the Father and the Son are portrayed sitting on a cloud with the Holy Spirit (partly hidden by the light) descending in the form of a bird.

Side Chapel of Holy Trinity, Sagrada Corazon de Jesus,  Sabancuy,  Campeche

In all Roman Catholic churches, the consecrated bread, the Blessed Sacrament, is kept in a special container.  Sometimes this container has it's own chapel, as below, where worshippers can come and pray in the presence of this sacrament.  It is considered among the holiest areas of a church, because, according to some theological perspectives, Christ is  actually physically present in the consecrated bread.

Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, Sagrada Corazon de Jesus, Sabancuy, Campeche

The states of Yucatan and Campeche both have many churches that exemplify, the elaborate, baroque architecture of the Colonial period in Mexico,  There are also many, many smaller churches that dot the landscape displaying vernacular, local characteristics that are equally as interesting as their urban cousins. 

Colorado's Oldest Church: Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO

Our Lady of Guadalupe Church, Conejos, CO

Colorado is more than the Rockies and ski hills.  Going south, as you get closer to northern New Mexico, there is more and more of the Spanish influence that reflects the area's Mexican heritage. Until it was conceded to the United States by Mexico at the end of the Mexican American War in 1848, Colorado was a part of Mexico.  The first permanent settlement in Colorado's San Luis Valley, where present-day Conejos is situated, was in 1850 and the first Mass in Colorado was held in Conejos in 1857.

History of the Church:
The early settlers of the Conejos area were Mexicans. In 1856 they dedicated a church to the Virgin of Guadalupe on a spot near present-day Conejos.  After the Conejos river flooded in 1857, Bishop Lamy, first Bishop of Santa Fe, New Mexico, advised that the church be moved south of the river on the same spot that the current-day church stands. The finished church was dedicated in 1863.  In 1878 the decision was made to improve the church façade and add two towers.  Originally administered by Jesuits, in 1920 jurisdiction was transferred to the Theatine order.

On Ash Wednesday 1926 the church was destroyed by a fire and the decision was made to rebuild it on the same spot. The old towers were left as an historical monument, but later taken down because of the hazards these unstable structures presented.  Ninety years after the first fire, in 2016 there was yet another fire in the church; this one was less destructive.

Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO

Façade Detail, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO

The Present Building:
The architect for the 1927 building is not known.  When the decision was made to raze the towers in 1948, John K. Monroe Sr. of Lakewood Colorado was brought in as the designer of the new façade. The resulting building was more elaborate than the other simpler churches in the area and researcher Tom Simmons of Front Range Research Associates,  in Denver believes that Monroe was striving for a building in the Spanish Colonial Revival style, with the 1794 Albuquerque Church being a possible influence.

The Interior:

View toward Front Altar, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO

View toward Choir Loft and Back of Church, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO

Front Altar, Our Lady of Guadalupe Church, Conejos, CO

The church has a simple interior with a single aisle and a more-or-less baroque main altar, that I believe was either replaced or restored after the 2016 fire. I had visited the church a few years prior to this and there have been interior changes since this fire. 

Small Altar to right of front altar, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO

The most remarkable features of the church are its stained glass windows, which Tom Simmons points out are unexpected since Conejos is in a relatively poor area of Colorado. 
These beautiful windows were created by Frank Watkins of Denver for the 1927 building and reflect the artistic style of the era. Watkins Stained Glass Studios, operating since 1868, still are in production.

Stained-Glass Windows, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO

Stained-Glass Windows, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos CO

Stained-Glass Window, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO

Stained-Glass Window, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO

 Stained-Glass Window, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO

Stained-Glass Window, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Conejos, CO

Window Detail, Our Lady of Guadalupe Church, Conejos, CO

Interestingly, in Mexican Churches, there is an occasional Byzantine Icon.  The precise origin of the icon in the Conejos church is not know, but please click this link to my article for more information about these icons in Mexican Churches https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2016/07/east-meets-west-greek-icon-in-mexican.html

Byzantine-style Icon, Our Lady of Conejos Church, Conejos, CO

Visiting the Conejos Church:
Conejos is a 4 1/2 hour drive from Denver, so a visit there is better combined with other activities in the area.   Conejos is less than 3 hours from Santa Fe, NM, so visiting this historical gem of a church en route to New Mexico is one (and my) strategy.   If you happen to be in Aspen area in the summer or fall, there is a fast back route over Independence Pass that gets you to Conejos in under 4 hours and from there onto Santa Fe, about 21/2 hours.

Thanks go to Tom Simmons of Front Range Research Associates, providing me with background information for this post.

The Feast of Guadalupe

Virgen de Guadalupe

Today, throughout Mexico, is the feast of the Virgin of Guadalupe, its Patron Saint.
The day is observed in many ways, with processions, masses and, in some parts of the country, with long-distance journeys made by individuals to honor a promise made to Guadalupe.  Please click the link to see the unique way in which the day is marked in the state of Quintana Roo on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula-

https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2017/12/the-race-for-guadalupe.html

Thanksgiving, Olé: Colonial Spain and the First Thanksgiving

                                                       

Could there be anything more "all-American" than our Thanksgiving Day?  Pilgrims and Indians joining hands in a feast that heralded a new nation.  Turns out that, as is so often the case with history, we need to think again.  Without the roundabout intervention of Colonial Spain, there might never have been a Thanksgiving Day, at all.
Please click the link to see what this is all about.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2015/12/colonial-spain-and-first-thanksgiving.html

Take a Tour of Dia de los Muertos Without Leaving Your Home

Items for Dia de los Muertos Altars, Oaxaca, MX

Dia de los Muertos links the living and the dead for a short while, October 31-November 3, and is one of the visually most striking celebrations in all of Mexico.  Click this link and take a tour of Dia de los Muertos throughout Mexico.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2017/10/a-dia-de-los-muertos-odyssey.html

Man with relative's skull, Pomuch, Campeche, MX

By far, the most unique Dia de los Muertos is in Pomuch in the state of Campeche, where they actually take out the bones of dead ancestors to clean them, as seen above.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2016/12/pomuch-campeche-dia-de-los-muertos-you.html

Hope you enjoy your tour!

The Church Ruins of Antigua, Guatemala

La Recolleción, Antigua, Guatemala

The churches of Mexico and all of Latin America are vibrant places, and retain their vibrancy even in a ruined state.  The church ruins I wrote about several years ago, in the state of Quintana Roo, are just one example. 
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2013/07/tihosuco-san-martiniano-other-mayan.html

Oaxaca Cathedral, Oaxaca MX

Buildings in many places in Latin America are at-risk from the frequent earthquakes in these zones of frequent seismic activity.  In fact, this environment prompted a new style of architecture that would be more earthquake resistant.  The Oaxaca Cathedral in Oaxaca Mexico typifies the solidity with which these churches have been built. There are none of the slender bell-towers and sky-grazing spires of churches in other places; these churches are rock-solid. Please follow the link below to learn more about this "Earthquake Baroque" architectural style.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2013/04/oaxacan-baroque-environment-and.html


Yet, even the most stringent architectural guidelines are not a guarantee; Latin America  bears testimony to the destructive power of earthquakes. The churches of Antigua, Guatemala are one case in point.  Although the original structures are gone, some of their outline and all of their spirit remains.  It is impossible to walk through a church ruin without sensing it is still a holy place.

San Jose Cathedral Cloisters:

Cloister ruins of San Jose Cathedral, Antigua, Guatemala

The Antigua (San Jose)  Cathedral has been damaged by earthquakes since the original church was built in 1541.  It was rebuilt and consecrated in 1680 and then again seriously damaged again in the earthquake of 1773. The church has since been rebuilt, but the cloisters have not and these cloister ruins remain a beautiful tribute to the past. 

Cloister ruins of San Jose Cathedral, Antigua, Guatemala

Church of Santo Domingo

This former Dominican Monastery dates from 1538 and was destroyed in the 1773 Santa Maria earthquake that destroyed the San Jose Cathedral.  Today, the old church-convent is a cultural complex that includes a museum and a hotel.  

Santo Domingo Convent ruins, Antigua, Guatemala

Santo Domingo Convent ruins, Antigua, Guatemala

Santo Domingo Convent ruins, Antigua, Guatemala

La Recolección:

This mission complex built by the order of Recollects in 1717 included classrooms, a library, hospital and cloisters. It was damaged by an earthquake in 1751 then largely destroyed in the major Santa Maria earthquake in 1773.  Today it is surrounded by a park. The mission remains hauntingly beautiful in its destroyed state.

La Recolección ruins, Antigua, Guatemala

La Recolección ruins, Antigua, Guatemala

La Recolección ruins, Antigua,Guatemala

La Recolección ruins, Antigua, Guatemala

La Recolección ruins, Antigua, Guatemala

Why Visit Church Ruins?
Churches, like the human beings they are built to serve, have an interdependent physical and spiritual component.  Even when their physical structure is destroyed, what they were and what they meant to people remains.  This is what makes church ruins such compelling places.  They are places of spiritual memory, something that cannot be destroyed.  Touring the church ruins of Antigua, Guatemala, or anywhere else, is as valuable experience as visiting the functioning churches themselves.