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Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Tihosuco, San Martiniano: The "Other" Mayan Ruins

Like the rest of Mexico the state of Quintana Roo, located in the eastern portion of the Yucatan Peninsula and bordered by the Caribbean Sea, is known for its ruins.  The ruins of Tulum,  which in its time was the main port for the inland Mayan city of Coba, are always full of tourists from all over the globe.   With its location alongside the turquoise blue waters of the Caribbean Tulum, historic value apart, is flat-out beautiful.  Coba, located further inland, is a very different sort of site. It is an extensive ruin that is well-visited, as are all the Mayan ruins in Quintana Roo and the rest of the Yucatan.  



Tulum, Quintana Roo, MX

Tulum, Quintana Roo, MX

Coba, Quintana Roo, MX

Coba, Quintana Roo, MX


Then, there are the "other" Mayan ruins, products of a different time in Yucatan history, but equally interesting and equally important.  A major event in the history of the Yucatan was the Caste War, Guerra de las Castas,  which started in the mid-nineteenth century but was not really finished until  the early 20th century.  It began as a Mayan uprising against the Spanish overlords and ultimately resulted  in the independent state of Quintana Roo in 1974.



Tihosuco, Quintana Roo, MX
From the outside the Church of the Divine Child in Tihosuco looks abandoned but, in fact, the interior has been partially reconstructed and it is in use as a church.  Prior to the Caste War, there had been some deterioration in the building, but during this war the church was intentionally destroyed by the uprising Mayans. Fortunately not all of the gunpowder in the keg that was meant to level the church exploded and the church was not totally demolished.

There is little information about the destruction of the old Guadalupe church in San Martiniano which is in a small pueblo not far from Puerto Morelos. I have been told that the church fell apart due to neglect over the years and now the ruins, apart from the facade seen below,  are being torn down to construct a new church that is a reproduction of the original one.


 San Martiniano, Quintana Roo, MX


 San Martiniano, Quintana Roo, MX

At the present time the church in Tihosuco as well as the one in San Martiniano  are functioning as churches  with active congregations.  Each will be explored in-depth in a coming post, but here are a few photos of their interiors.

Interior of San Martiniano church ruin


Interior of Tihosuco church ruin
Neither of these church ruins has the antiquity of Tulum, Coba or the other Mayan ruins, but they both are Mayan ruins of a different sort.  The histories that led to them are fascinating and complex and no less a part of the formation of the contemporary Mayan people of Quintana Roo than the pre-Hispanic period.

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