Good Friday Procession: An Invisible Participant

Semana Santa, Holy Week, is the final week of the church's observance of Lent, the 

40 day (more or less) penitential period of the church leading up to Easter.  In Mexico and all of Latin America, Semana Santa is a major event, marked by religious processions and ritual.  The Holy Week processions of certain places are famous, particularly the world-famous processions of Antigua, Guatemala.  Please follow the links below to see previous posts and videos of some of these:
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2015/04/video-holy-saturday-procession.html   
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2015/04/videos-of-holy-week-in-latin-america.html

As you can see from the videos, processional figures and floats are elaborate and their imagery rich.  The major actors from the biblical accounts of the last week of Jesus' earthly life are represented in beautiful and costly images, as in this float bearing Jesus carrying his cross    

Add caption

However there is one curious exception you will see on Holy Friday in Antigua. In the photos below we see a procession forming at the magnificent early 18th century church of San Francisco el Grande.  There are the incense and standard bearers and some of the clergy in front of the church's magnificent baroque façade.

Good Friday procession, San Francisco church, Antigua Guatemala

Good Friday procession, San Francisco church, Antigua Guatemala

A red velvet canopy emerges carried by four men in the traditional hoods that conceal their faces and identities.  There is no image visible under this canopy and it remains empty to our eyes throughout the long procession.  Yet, it leads the procession.

Good Friday procession, San Francisco Church, Antigua Guatemala

The Holy Spirit in procession,  Good Friday procession, Antigua Guatemala

Although the canopy looks empty, to the eyes of faithful believers it is not.
The occupant is the Holy Spirit, the spiritual force that breathed life into being and continues to support creation.  In Christian theology, the Holy Spirit, along with God the Father and Jesus, is one part of the Trinity, a concept that was the end of long theological debate centuries ago. 

In Latin American religious art, the Holy Spirit is typically represented as a bird. This can be seen in both Mexican depictions of the Trinity below.

Holy Trinity, Merida Cathedral, Merida MX

Trinity, Itzimna Church, Merida MX

Another typical Latin American representation of the Trinity is as one of three actual persons, as in this New Mexican santo.

Santo of Holy Trinity by Jose Maria Benavides, New Mexico

Yet, in the Antigua procession, there is no image.  This representation of the Holy Spirit without any image is not seen in many (if any other) Holy Week processions where the focus is on Jesus, Mary, St. John and other central participants in the biblical accounts of the final week of Jesus' earthly life.  It is something unique in the Latin American world, although perhaps there are precedents in Spain where the processions have a longer history, stemming from medieval times.

A Reunion, Oaxaca-Style

Dresses typical of Tehuantepec

The women in these beautiful traditional dresses are not out for a casual stroll.  They are part of the reunion of a group from Salina Cruz, a city in the Tehuantepec District in the west of the Istmo Region of the State of Oaxaca.   

A reunion in the US may mean a cook-out or a banquet, but in Oaxaca it means a procession, the mainstay of Oaxacan cultural heritage.  There are some processions in Oaxaca that are not religious in nature, but in traditional Mexican life there is little that is purely secular.  The spiritual and material manage to intertwine and this was the case with the reunion.  This was a gathering of  members of a particular religious confraternity, a very basic denominator of social life in many Latin American Communities; some of them happened to be actual blood relatives, as well. 

 Reunion Procession, Oaxaca City, Oaxaca MX

Reunion Procession, Oaxaca City, Oaxaca MX

  Some of the group no longer lived in Salina Cruz, but in Oaxaca itself, as in the group below.

Reunion Procession, Oaxaca City, Oaxaca, MX

Like many processions in Oaxaca city, this one began at the church of Santo Domingo,

Reunion Procession in front of Santo Domingo church, Oaxaca MX

and following a traditional processional route, ended at the Oaxaca Cathedral, below.

Oaxaca Cathedral, Oaxaca MX

The fact that the reunion took the form of a religious procession did not rule out its 
having a queen or two, as the lovely young women below.

Salina Cruz Procession Queen, Oaxaca MX

Salina Cruz Procession Queen, Oaxaca MX

Salina Cruz Procession Queens and Escorts

The colorful and elaborate embroidery of the dresses from Tehuantepec puts them among Mexico's most beautiful traditional costumes.  The Tehuana dress was worn and made famous by artist Frida Kahlo. Below are some examples of the stunning dress and the elaborate earrings that are worn with it.

Dresses from Tehuantepec

Woman in tradional Tehuana costume

Tehuana dresses

Elaborate Earring typical of Tehuantepec

Elaborate Earring ttypical of Tehuantepec

Girls in Tehuana dresses

               

The Race for Guadalupe

Guadalupe Pilgrim, Tulum, Quintana Roo, MX

This may look like someone in a road-race, but actually it is a man on a religious pilgrimage, a pilgrimage for the Virgin of Guadalupe.  In many ways is it a race, or a mad scramble, because participants must reach their destination by 11 pm the night of December 11 for the celebration that begins the December 12 Feast Day of Guadalupe.

Pilgrims' Car, Tulum, Quintana Roo, MX

For people dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe, Mexico's Patron Saint, celebrating her December 12 feast day includes some sort of pilgrimage.  The Basilica de Guadalupe in Mexico City is the ultimate pilgrimage destination, but Mexico is a big place and not everyone can get there.  Other areas have significant Guadalupe shrines, such as the Guadalupe Church in San Cristobal de las Casas Chiapas and people will travel long distances, sometimes on foot, to reach them.

The towns of the states of Quintana Roo and Yucatan on the Yucatan Peninsula are very distant from the central Mexican shrines but other pilgrimage traditions for Guadalupe's Feast Day have grown up and are equally as compelling.

The car in the photo above is one of many on the road during the nine-day period that marks the celebration of Guadalupe.  In Mexico, most major saint's days are celebrated for a period of time before the actual day.  In Yucatan, the pilgrim's objective is to return to their home church by 11 pm on December 11,  At this time mariachi-led church celebration starts  that culminates in all singing  a special version of "Las Mañanitas", the traditional Mexican birthday song, to our Lady of Guadalupe, 

Typically, people undertake pigrimages because they have prayed to the Virgin of Guadalupe for some favor and received it.  The original prayer included a promesa, a vow, to Guadalupe that they would undertake a pilgrimmage if their petition were granted.

Pilgrims' Van, Quintana Roo, MX

Pilgrims' Car, Quintana Roo, MX

Signs on the cars show beginning of the journey on the top and the destination on the bottom. Typically the origin is where the people are working and the destination is where they originated. Most small pueblos have a church dedicated to Guadalupe, which becomes a sort of shrine to the saint.


There is a lot of excitement and frenetic energy in the Yucatan during these days, as pilgrims struggle to reach their goal.  Typically, they do not ride in the cars which are there for pilgrims'  support and breaks,  but run along the highways often bare-footed.

. 

Guadalupe Pilgrim Group, near Tulum, Quintana Roo, MX

Some go the distance on bicycle with or without a support vehicle, carrying a heavy statue of Guadalupe on their backs.

Guadalupe Pilgrim on bicycle, Quintana Roo, MX

This bicycle was traveling from Cancun to Tixpehual, Yucatan, a distance of 296 
kilometers, a difficult journey for this kind of vehicle.

Pilgrims' Bicycle, Valladolid, Yucatan, MX

It is difficult to convey the excitement of the day of December 11, the day when pilgrims are making their final push to the destinations.  Roads are full of all sorts of vehicles bearing images of Guadalupe and each is really a shrine to the saint.

Cars in Pilgrimage Procession, Yucatan, MX

Pilgrim Truck, Quintana Roo, MX

Pilgrim's Vehicle, Valladolid, Yucatan, MX

After nightfall, there is extra intensity since people are nearing their destinations and making the final push.  On the Coba-Tulum road, a primary artery between the states of Yucatan and Quintana Roo where many pilgrims are headed, way stations have been set up for the support of pilgrims where food and drink are offered free of charge.  Everyone needs to be at their destination well-before the 11 pm service.

Pilgrims on the Coba-Tulum Road, Quintana Roo, MX

Pilgrims stopping along Coba-Tulum Road, Quintana Roo, MX

Guadalupe Altar at way-station, Macario Gomez Quintana Roo, MX

Most reach their destinations with some time to spare.  Here, in Akumal Quintana Roo, pilgrims are waiting to line up for the procession to the church, which begins around 10:45.

Pilgrim's Car, Akumal Quintana Roo, MX

Pilgrim's bicycle, Akumal Quintana Roo, MX

Pilgrims waiting for processions to begin, Akumal, Quintana Roo, MX

Pilgrim's car decorated for procession, Akumal, MX

The pueblo's population is waiting at the church to welcome the returning pilgrims. They are honored and acknowledged as they enter the church carrying their personal Guadalupe images that they have carried the long distance.

Outside Guadalupe Church, Akumal MX

PIlgrims enterring Guadalupe Church, Akumal MX

During evening service, Akumal MX

Each pilgrim presents flowers to the church's Guadalupe statue who, in the eyes of the pilgrims and the congregation, is more than just a mere image with a reality of her own.  Please click the photo to enlarge it and see the beautiful accumulation of flowers and candles.

Guadalupe Church, Akumal MX

Midnight ushers in the new day of Guadalupe and the mariachis lead the congregation in "Las Mañanitas", the Mexican birthday song. That night there is no mass for Guadalupe, that waits for the next day.  That night is a fiesta full of joy and song for their beloved Lady of Guadalupe.

Mariachi Band leading service, Guadalupe Church, Akumal MX

 For more information about Guadalupe celebrations in the Yucatan please click this link. https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2017/02/guadalupe-in-paradise.html

The Truth About Thanksgiving Day

Turkeys at Market, Ocotlan Oaxaca MX

These Mexican turkeys are not destined for anyone's Thanksgiving table, but Spain and Colonial Mexico did play a roundabout role in the US's first Thanksgiving. There is the myth of Thanksgiving that we all learned in grade school and then there is the truth.
To read about it, click the link below. You will be surprised.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2015/12/colonial-spain-and-first-thanksgiving.html

A Dia de los Muertos Odyssey

Cemetery decorated for Dia de los Muertos, Romerillo, Chiapas

Dia de los Muertos, the time of year in Mexico when the worlds of the living and dead intersect, is coming up.  According to the lore of the holiday, on November 1 and 2, the souls of the dead visit and partake of the lives they once lived on earth. Preparations to welcome the dead begin well before these days and in many places Halloween (Oct. 31) is included in the celebration. 

Each region of Mexico contributes its own specific beliefs and customs to this pan-Mexican holiday. Our odyssey, here, begins in Chiapas, Mexico with its unique contribution of pre-Columbian Maya beliefs and customs.  The green crosses in the photo above are typical of Maya areas and have a local meaning and symbolism beyond that of the Christian cross.  In Romerillo Chiapas, people place boards over graves so that the dead during the year, so they cannot leave them and wander around before Dia de los Muertos.

Grave in Cemetery of Romerillo, Chiapas

Read all about Dia de los Muertos as it is celebrated in Chiapas:
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2013/11/dia-de-los-muertos-chiapas.html

Dia de los Muertos, Cemetery San Juan Chamula, Chiapas

You can see it, as well, in the Videos linked below. The first one I shot at the November 2 celebration in the cemetery of San Juan Chamula, Chiapas. It is one of a kind and you will be treated to an event not usually seen by outsiders, since photography is forbidden ( I had special permission)
A second video is of the celebration in the beautiful cemetery of Romerillo shown in  two of the photos above.  
The third video is of the Panthéon (cemetery) of Cristöbal de las Casas.  Cemeteries are hubs of activities during Dia de los Muertos and this video captures the beauty and poignancy of the celebration.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2013/11/videos-of-dia-de-los-muertos-in-chiapas.html

Add caption

In the states of Quintana Roo and Yucátan there are unique twists to Dia de Los Muertos where the holiday is known by its Maya name of Hanal Pixán.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2014/11/dia-de-los-muertos-hospitality-for-dead.html

Add caption

In parts of the US once owned by Mexico, elements of Mexcian culture are still vibrant.
Here are two videos shot in the Spanish missions of San Antonio, Texas, which was once a part of colonial Mexico. They show the unique blending of indigenous American and Mexican-Christian elements in this Dia de los Muertos celebration.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2015/10/coahuiltecan-indian-blessing-of-dia-de.html

Dia de los Muertos revelers, Oaxaca

Oaxaca is justifiably famous for its celebration of Dia de los Muertos.  People painted as skeletons, portraying La Catrina the icon of Dia de los Muertos, are everywhere.  Is this all fun and games?  No, there is a much deeper level to all the rollicking activity, as you will learn here:
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2015/11/dia-de-los-muertos-in-oaxaca-rehearsal.html

Open Grave in Cemetery of Pomuch, Campeche

Pomuch, a small town in Campeche, hosts what I call the "Ultimate" Dia de los Muertos". 
It's a little shocking, at first, but fascinating.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2016/12/pomuch-campeche-dia-de-los-muertos-you.html

                                       ----------------------------------------------

Mexico is wonderful any time of the year. During  Dia de los Muertos it is most itself with its essential nature, the unique blending of indigenous and Christian elements, shining through.