The San Antonio Missions: 2015 UNESCO World Heritage Site

Mission San Antonio de Valero, "The Alamo", San Antonio, TX

The phrase "Remember the Alamo" is a part of America's lore.  Yet, outside of Texas, many do not know much about the Alamo's origins or the city, San Antonio, in which it is located. The Alamo was one of five Spanish missions in the area and all of these San Antonio Missions were recently awarded the status of UNESCO World Heritage site.  They are also  a U.S. State Park and the park rangers there are quick to tell visitors that San Antonio, not Williamsburg, was the real Colonial America. 

San Antonio's roots go back to June 13, 1691 when the place was discovered by a group of Spanish explorers and missionaries and named after San Antonio de Padua.  Permission to build a mission and other buildings was granted by the viceroy in 1716 although actual construction of the Mission San Antonio de Valero- the Alamo- and a few other structures did not begin until 1718.  All the missions were founded by monks of the Franciscan order based out of Querétero in Mexico.

By 1824 all five missions had been closed and the buildings turned over to local Catholic authorities. Over the years, through lack of use and maintenance, the buildings fell into a state of decay. Finally, in 1978, the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park was formed and efforts to restore and preserve the missions began.

The five missions in the National Historical Park were built, as were all the missions of Colonial Mexico,  to bring Christianity to the indigenous population of the area. Until 1845 what is now Texas was a part of Mexico and the missions of San Antonio are every bit as Spanish as anything you will see in the former motherland.

Please note that all photos enlarge when clicked.

Mission San José

Misión San José y San José de Aguayo, was established in 1720.

 

Mission San José, San Antonio, TX (2012)

The church's baroque façade was restored in 1948.  The mission's patron saint, San José (St. Joseph)  is seen above the oval window. To the right is St. Francis of Assisi, founder of the Franciscan order and to the left is Saint Dominic, who had been a friend of St. Francis. Directly above the wood door is the Virgin of Guadalupe. 

Front Façade, Mission San José, San Antonio, TX

To the left and right of the door are statues of the Virgin Mary's parents, St. Joachim and St. Anne.

Front Façade, Mission San José, San Antonio, TX

Rose Window, Mission San José, San Antonio, TX

The church is built in the basilica style with one central aisle as was characteristic of most Franciscan mission churches in Mexico.   

Mission San José, San Antonio, TX

The altarpiece is elaborate and unusual in its coloration. Among some Pueblo groups, the color blue was sacred and had a special significance; I do not know if that has anything to do with the color of this altar, but it is a possibility to investigate. 

Front Altar, Mission San José, San Antonio, TX

Statue of Guadalupe, Mission San José, San Antonio, TX

Cloisters, Mission San José, San Antonio, TX

All of the San Antonio Missions, in addition to being center of religious conversion for the Coahuiltecan Indians, the indigenous peoples of Texas,  were also centers of protection, assistance and education for them.  These groups were preyed upon by roving bands of Apache and Comanches and the missions protected them from these depredations. In times of attack, the Coahuiltecans would retreat within the mission walls.  Some of them actually lived within the missions in quarters such as those in the photo. 

Former Indian Quarters, Mission San José, San Antonio, TX

Mission Espada

Misión San Francisco de la Espada was established in 1690 in Augusta, TX and moved in 1731 to San Antonio. 

It is unique among the missions, as well as among the majority of ex-conventos in Mexico, because it is once again an working Franciscan monastery.

Front Door, Mission Espada, San Antonio, TX

Cloister, Mission Espada, San Antonio, TX

The interior of this mission retains the original wood ceiling that was typical in the construction of the period.  The church is intimate and charming.

Church Interior, Mission Espada, San Antonio, TX

Front Altar area, Mission Espada, San Antonio, TX

Statue of Christ Scourged, Mission Espada, San Antonio, TX

Mission Concepción

 Misión Nuestra Señora de la Purisima Concepción de Acuña was established in a different location in Texas in 1716 and then moved in 1731 to San Antonio. Of all the missions, it was the best-preserved and least altered building, although like all the others it has required extensive renovation.

Mission Concepción, San Antonio, TX

Mission Concepción, showing cloister, San Antonio, TX 

The altars in the church are modern and lack the carved altarpieces typically seen in Mexican colonial churches.  

Front Altar,  Mission Concepción, San Antonio, TX

View of Organ Loft, Mission Concepción, San Antonio, TX

Ciborium, Mission Concepción, San Antonio, TX

Guadalupe Altar, Mission Concepción, San Antonio, TX

Station of the Cross, Mission Concepción, San Antonio, TX

Chapel, Mission Concepción, San Antonio, TX

 Mission Concepción has more early frescoes than the other missions and of these, only fragments remain. Wall frescoes were done for various purposes.  Some were meant to teach the indigenous converts about Christianity, others were decorative architectural accents and still others were meant to cover-up building flaws. The painting immediately below resembles an altar and perhaps substituted for an altarpiece in the early days of the mission.

Fresco, Mission Concepción, San Antonio, TX

Baptismal font with fresco above, Mission Concepcion, SanAntonio, TX

Fresco fragment, Mission Concepción, San Antonio, TX

Fresco fragment, Mission Concepción, San Antonio, TX

Visitors can still see some of the mission's original architecture inside of the building's cloister. Here is an original staircase that went up to the office of a mission official.

Original Arched Stairway, Mission Concepción, San Antonio, TX

Mission San Juan Capistrano

Misión San Juan Capistrano Mission was originally established in 1716 as Misión San Jose de los Nazonis and moved in 1731 to San Antonio. When I was there in 2012, the mission was under renovation and it was not possible to go inside.  Subsequently it has been finished and is open to the public; I plan on returning to San Antonio in the fall (2015) and will be updating this post.

Mission San Juan  Capistrano, San Antonio, TX (under renovation, 2102)

Espedaña, Mission San Juan Capistrano, San Antonio, TX

Cathedral of San Fernando

Although this is not a part of the San Antonio Missions Historical Park, this cathedral dating from 1750,  is an historically important building and houses the remains of those killed in the Alamo. It is also one of the oldest active Roman Catholic Cathedrals in the US.  It was from the tower of this building that in1836, at the beginning of the siege of the Alamo, General Santa Ana raised the red flag indicating that no one inside the Alamo was to be spared. 

Cathedral of San Fernando, San Antonio, TX

The building which has been renovated several times is beautifully restored.                                                

Cathedral of San Fernando, San Antonio, TX

                                                 

Main Altar, Cathedral of San Fernando, San Antonio, TX

The Spanish crown ordered San Antonio settled by a group of people from various places, including a contingent sent from the Canary Islands.  The statue of Our Lady of Candelaria  honors this group. 

Altar of Our Lady of Candelaria, San Fernando Cathedral, San Antonio, TX

Cathedral of San Fernando, San Antonio, TX

Our Lady of Candelaria, Cathedral of San Fernando, San Antonio, TX

An altar dedicated to Guadalupe is ubiquitous feature of most Mexican churches since Guadalupe is the Patron Saint of Mexico.

Altar of Guadalupe, San Fernando Cathedral, San Antonio, TX

Remains of the men who died at the Alamo are enshrined within the Cathedral as is written on the plaque in the photo below.

Plaque Commemorating Heroes of Alamo, Cathedral of San Fernando, San Antonio, TX

and there is a small coffin holding what are believed to be the ashes and charred bones
of the Alamo heroes.

Small Coffin holding charred remains and ashes of Alamo Heroes, Cathedral of San Fernando San Antonio, TX

An Accessible Piece of Old Mexico

It is easy to forget that Texas is more than cowboys, barbecue and that up until 1845 it was a part of Mexico.  Yet, some three hours west of Houston, colonial Mexico  still lives.  San Antonio and its missions still offer an authentic experience of the world of Colonial Mexico, conveniently located on US soil, and the whole city retains a Mexican cultural flavor and identity making it a place that is not to be missed.

Mazatlán's Unique Cathedral

Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, Mazatlan MX

Mazatlán, a city on the west coast of Mexico in Sinaloa state, remained a small fishing village until the mid-19th century;  development did not really begin until the early 20th century.  It's Cathedral, the Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception was begun in 1855 by the order of Bishop Pedro Loza y Pardavé and then stopped in 1856 due to the start of political and military turmoil in the region.  Construction began once again in 1875 under the direction of Padre Miguel Lacarra working with bricklayer Estanislao Léon,
carpenter Santiago Léon and iron-worker Isaac Léon. 

Main Altar, Cathedral Basilica of Mazatlan MX

The cathedral has the altars typical of a Mexican cathedral, such as this guilded baroque main altar, as well as several side altars. The interior of the cathedral has evolved with reconstructions over the years and now is a good deal more ornate than in its original state.The mudejar influence is an interesting feature and the Star of David windows make it truly unique.


Mudejar Influence: 
Although its architecture is basically gothic, a significant mudejar or moorish influence is noted and this starts with the building façade. It should be noted that the country of Spain was under Islamic rule for a number of centuries and what we think of as Islamic or moorish was the dominant cultural influence in Spain reaching into all areas of life for its inhabitants- Christian, Jewish and Muslim, alike.  Note the similarities in design between the façade of Mazatlan's Cathedral and an interior feature of the medieval El Transito synagogue in Toledo, Spain, which was converted into a church after the 1492 expulsion of the Jews from Spain. 

Add caption

Interior of El Transito Synagogue, Toldeo Spain

Some of the interior brickwork resembles that found on the Cathedral of Cordoba Spain, 
that before the reconquest of Spain by the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella had been a mosque.  

Window, Mazatlan Cathedral

Cathedral-Mosque of Cordoba Spain

Take a look at the similarity of the color scheme in this window from the Mazatlán Cathedral 

Window, Mazatlán Cathedral, Mazatlán, MX

and a door in Fez, Morocco.

Door, Fez Morocco

Star of David Windows:
By now you have noticed that there are stained glass windows bearing the Star of David, sometimes called the Shield of David,  in the Mazatlán Cathedral.  In fact there are 28 of them, making it the only Roman Catholic Cathedral in the world like this. These windows are quite prominent and visible both from the inside and outside of the building.

Detail of Star of David Window, Cathedral Basilica of Mazatlan, Mazatlan, MX

Interior of Dome located above altar, Cathedral Basilica, Mazátlan MX

Side Window, Cathedral Basilica of Mazátlan, MX

Side view, Cathedral Basilica of Mazátlan, MX

It does seem strange to see a primary symbol of Judaism so prominently displayed in a Roman Catholic cathedral. The explanation offered is that at some point in time, when the Cathedral needed money for construction, a Jewish donor stepped forward and gave the money and the windows were placed in gratitude for the gift. There is no record of this individual's identity or when the donation was made. Judging from early church photos and construction records the Star of David windows were  installed after 1929

 Although today the Star of David is generally understood to be a symbol of Judaism,  this has not always been the case.  What we call the Star of David had its origins as an Arabic symbol and was used as a protective amulet by Muslims and Jews alike.  The symbol is seen in some medieval churches in Europe such as in the Cathedral of Valencia Spain, which dates from the 13th century.

Valencia Cathedral, Valencia Spain,

Scholar Gershom Scholem has written a very interesting history of the Star of David symbol   According to him, the use of the Star of David as a symbol of Judaism did not become popular until the 19th century and it only became definitive when it was chosen as a symbol of Zionism at the Basle Conference in 1897.   

According to J. Trinidad Hernández Dávila, a clergyman and historian of the Mazátlan Cathedral, the windows do reference Judaism, and are a reminder of the Jewish roots of Catholicism and of the fact that its founder was a Jew.  In a country like Mexico where some 10% of the population is estimated to be of Jewish origins, these windows have a special resonance. *

*( In 1492, Spain's Jews were given the choice of exile or conversion and many chose the latter.  Yet, these conversos, as they were known, were continually suspected of practicing Judaism and lived under the threat of the Inquisition.  Under these circumstance some chose to move to the New World and were among the first settlers of Mexico. After religious freedom was instituted in Mexico in the 1860's some conversos began to return to Judaism, but many remained within the Catholic Church.)

The Trinity in Colonial Latin American Art

The doctrine of the Trinity sets Christianity apart from the two other Abrahamic faiths, Judaism and Islam.  Both of these are adamant in their insistence that God is One and reject Christianity's trinitarian formulation that God is three persons- Father, Son and Holy Spirit- in one person.  The idea of Trinity is not directly found in the Bible, but was a doctrine arrived at in the councils of the early Church and formalized at the Council of Nicea in 325 A.D.  

Throughout the history of art, there have been different ways of depicting the idea of the Trinity, of visually spelling-out the complex theological notion of three persons in one. The importance of teaching images surged with the Spanish Conquest because there was, suddenly, a large indigenous population that needed to be indoctrinated in Christianity. How could the clergy charged with the conversion explain the Trinity to someone who had never heard of the concept? Images were central in this, as they were with all facets of the conversion.  Here are some of those images.

Jesus Seated at the Right Hand of the Father:
 One type derives directly from the New Testament where the Gospel of Mark describes Jesus ascending into Jesus heaven and then sitting at the right hand of the Father.  Scripture also describes the Holy Spirit descending in the form of a dove upon Jesus at his baptism (present in all four gospels), hence the depiction of a bird in representations of the Trinity.
All of these elements are a part of the following representations.

Basilica of Guadelupe, Mexico City

Itizimna Church, Merida, MX

Mexico

Throne of Mercy:

A variant of Trinity iconography, known as the "Throne of Mercy",  developed in medieval Europe.  In this, God is portrayed as sitting on a throne, wearing a Papal tiara and holding the crucified figure of Jesus; the dove is also seen. Father presents his dying Son on the cross to the viewer. On the cross sits a dove, the symbol of the Holy Spirit because when he was baptized Jesus "saw the Spirit of God descending as a dove" (Matthew 3:16, Mark 1:10, Luke 3:22, John 1:32).  Frequently, as in the first two photos there is an orb representing the world that God created with the implication of his rulership over all.

San Jeronimo Tlacochahuaya, Oaxaca

Merida Cathedral, Merida, MX

Three Identical Men:

Another version of  Trinity iconography portrayed  three identical men. This form had precedents in medieval European art, but more or less disappeared when it regained popularity in the Spanish colonies. However, it was condemned in the 18th century by

Pope Benedict XIV but remained a popular form in New Mexico which was so far from the cultural centers of the Mexico that it developed its own unique art forms. (for more about New Mexican religious art visit the Sept. 6, 2014 post of this blog "Understanding New Mexico's Santos  http://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2014/09/understanding-new-mexicos-santos.html).  

Templo de San Matias Jalatlaco, Oaxaca MX

Oaxaca MX

by Pedro Antonio Fresquis, 19th century New Mexico

by José Manuel Benavides, New Mexico, 19th century New Mexico

Three-faced Trinity:

A related iconographic type had a single human figure with three faces. There were examples of this in Europe, but these were attacked by the Church and in the 17th century were forbidden by Pope Urban VIII. In the New World, further from Papal surveillance, these images became most popular in South America.

Colonial Peru

Colonial Colombia- painter Gregorio Vasquez de Arce y Ceballos

The painter Ceballos is said to have been the innovator of the Trinity with four eyes and three faces in one.  This iconography of the Trinity was condemned by the Church as heretical because it resembled three-faced depictions of Hindu deities.  Despite this censuring, such images of the Trinity remained popular in the Latin American world throughout the colonial period.  The painting from Colonial Peru differs from that of Ceballos, although all such images were rejected by the Church.

Trinity Iconography as a teaching tool:

The Christian church is resolute in its insistence that God is one but yet three and the resulting  theological construct of Trinity is a very complex idea, one that is often difficult to communicate, even to Christians.  Painted and sculpted images of the Trinity were not unique to the Spanish Colonial world, but were copied or developed from European prototypes with the exception of a few unique images such as that of Ceballos above.  The Trinity has never been an easy idea to get across to people, particularly people who are brand-new to Christianity. 

The Spanish clerics charged with the massive task of converting the newly-conquered indigenous peoples faced major communication problems due to the language barrier, and also because the new ideas they were teaching were different from established religious beliefs.  As in all facets of this massive conversion process, sculpted and painted images were the central teaching tools. The images in this post were some of the "books"
used in this process.