| Viacrucis Aquatic, Granada Nicaragua |
Colonial Mexico's art, architecture, churches, religious customs and history
| Viacrucis Aquatic, Granada Nicaragua |
| Pomuch Campeche MX |
Dia de los Muertos, the Day of the Dead, is celebrated throughout Mexico. The holiday, which combines elements of Christian belief and practice with indigenous elements, runs from October 31-November 2, although in practice Dia de los Muertos events and preparations begin well before the designated dates.
Celebrations in all areas of Mexico involve the belief that during the days of the Dead, the boundary between the living and the dead becomes permeable and the dead return to the sphere of the living with the invitation of the smells of special foods, flowers and incense that are arrayed on altars built for them. What is most interesting is how the customs vary from place to place.
The linked article below has several links that will take you to articles and videos about the unique celebrations of Dia de los Muertos in different areas of Mexico. Please take alook.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2017/10/a-dia-de-los-muertos-odyssey.html
| Jose de Gracias Church, Las Trampas, New Mexico |
| Taos High Road, rock formation |
through old New Mexican towns like Truchas, Cordova and Las Trampas. In each of these
places there is an old adobe church. In the last two weekends of September, the High Road
comes to life with the annual High Road Art Tour. The church in Las Trampas is open to the
pubic, though no photos of the interior are permitted. The little church in Truchas is beautiful
and an of the colonial New Mexican style. It is not open to the public, but I received special
permission to photograph within it.
This link will take you to an article about this rarely seen uniquely New Mexican colonial
church.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2017/07/new-mexican-gem-of-taos-high-road.html
| Via Crucis Aquatic-Granada, Nicaragua |
Holy Week in the Central American countries of Guatemala and Nicaragua is similar to that in other parts of the Latin American world, but also very different. Nowhere else will you find the elaborate sawdust carpets, Huertos (elaborate gardens constructed of fruits and vegetables) or a Good Friday Via Crucis in boats on the water.
The sawdust and floral carpets created during Lent and Holy Week are unparalleled. These carpets are created on streets before the passage of a religious procession and are meant to be destroyed as they are walked on by the procession. They are a gift to the divine. Antigua, Guatemala is world-famous for its carpets.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2015/03/the-anatomy-of-sawdust-carpet-lent-in.html
The carpets of Barrio Sutiava in Leon, Nicaragua are very different from those of Antigua.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2017/05/art-as-sacrifice-sawdust-carpets-of.html
This video, shot in Antigua, Guatemala takes an in-depth look at these carpets and their construction.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2015/03/video-available-sawdust-and-floral.html
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Huertos are spectacular displays of fruits and vegetables constructed in churches and, in Nicaragua, in special structures built for the occasion. The word huerto translates as vegetable garden or orchard and they symbolize the abundance and redemption of the resurrection.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2017/04/the-huertos-of-guatemala-and-nicaragua.html
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On Good Friday, throughout the Christian world, the Via Crucis, Stations of the Cross is performed publicly. In Granada, Nicaragua there is a completely unique Via Crucis in boats on the city's Lake Nicaragua.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2018/04/via-crucis-aquatic-granada-nicaragua.html
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Nandaime, Nicaragua is a small country town that has a celebration that turns the ancient purification ritual of self-flagellation on its head. In Nandaime on Holy Wednesday each year for one hour, participants roam the streets good-naturedly whipping anyone in their path. It did sting a bit, but was interesting to be there.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2016/04/taking-hit-holy-wednesday-in-nandaime.htm
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Antigua Guatemala is world-famous for its spectacular Holy Week processions. Here is one that took place on the day before Easter, an important day in the Latin American world.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2015/04/video-holy-saturday-procession.html
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Bands are a central part of processions. Special music has been composed for them over the years. In essence they are funeral bands.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2018/05/the-music-of-holy-week-processions.html
Although Dial de los Muertos, the Day of the Dead, may be Mexico's most famous holiday, tomorrow is equally important. On December 12, throughout Mexico, is the festival of Guadalupe. Actually, the festival has been in motion long before this culminating day, with pilgrims rushing to reach their goals. Some head for the official Shrine of Guadalupe in Mexico City. Others head to their home churches, but all are striving to fulfill a promise made to Guadalupe that they would make a pilgrimage in honor of a prayer she has fulfilled.
Guadalupe is the Patron Saint of Mexico and her day is a national holiday. The time surrounding the holiday is dynamic, colorful and deeply moving in its depth of religious commitment and passion. The following post describes journeys made by pilgrims in observation of the festival.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2017/12/the-race-for-guadalupe.html
Celebrations of Guadalupe's day differ from region to region,. The next article shows a colorful and beautiful celebration of the festival in a small beach town on the Yucatan Peninsula's "Riviera Maya".
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2017/02/guadalupe-in-paradise.html
| Constructing a Huerto, Diria, Nicaragua |
| Hanal Pixan Altar, Izamal, Yucatán, MX 2023 |
There is one dish that is characteristic of Hanal Pixán altars that you will not find in other parts of Mexico. That is mukbil pollo which translates as "buried chicken"; the dish is also called "pibes". Mukbil Pollo is a chicken tamale wrapped in banana lives and cooked in a hole in the ground; the realm of the dead. It has a distinctive smokiness due to the way it is cooked.
The thing is that living people also like Mukbil Pollo. It has a wonderful smoky aroma and taste because of the way it is cooked-wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in an open fire underground. Several years ago, I had the dish in a restaurant in Izamal during the time of Hanal Pixan. Hoping for a repeat, I drove the three hours to Izamal from my home base in Quintana Roo, since Mukbil Pollo is generally not available commercially'. It typically s cooked in homes for the express purpose of the altars.
Arriving in Izamal, a fascinating town with a rich colonial colonial history and the beautiful 16th century monastery of San Antonio de Padua, I began my inquiries. They turned up nothing.
| Convento of San Antonio de Padua, Izamal Yucatán |
| Izamal, Yucatán |
| Street scene, Izamal, Yucatán, showing monastery wall |
Finally, someone told me about a woman with a tricycle cart who sold mukbil pollo, daily, proving my point that the dish attracts the living as well as the dead. Asking as I went, I found her street and then her house. Peering in her house, I could see the pibes (same as Mukbil Pollo).
| House interior, Izamal, Yucatan |
| Mukbil Pollo orders for Hanal Pixán altars, Izamal, Yucatán |
| Counting the orders of Mukbil Pollo, Izamal, Yucatán |
The woman was a good businesswoman and had her grand-daughter tally orders to see if there was spare for me. As she counted the orders, I decided not to to take food out of a dead person's mouth, thanked her and told her to hold onto her orders in case one was needed for a last-minute altar.
Back on the street I started, once again, making my inquiries. I was in luck- a restaurant down the block, the finest in the town, was serving mukbil pollo to living humans. I'd managed to stumble into Izamal's fine-dining establishment, the beautiful Restaurant Kinich Izamal.
Kinich's special for the day- it was November 1, the second day of Hanal Pixán- was none other than Mukbil Pollo. The portion was huge, as one is typically split by a whole family. I'm not sure if it was actually cooked in the traditional way, stuck in a fire in a hole in the ground, but it was close enough.
| Restaurante Kinich Izamal |
A sizable box of left-overs in hand, I walked back to my car for the 3 hour return trip.
| Prince Henry the Navigator |
Fighting the Moors in the Muslim port of Ceuta in Northern Africa opened his eyes to the potential of Subsaharan trade routes. This, in turn, led to a general fascination with Africa and desire to explore its trade possibilities.
He established a School of Navigation in the furthest southwest part of Portugal, Sagres. His goals were to find new trade routes to Africa and along the way to establish alliances against Muslim power. In those days, Sagres was, literally, the end of the world. What lay to its west, no one knew. According to the legends that abounded there were sea monsters and the waters at times boiled- no one was interested in finding out if these things were true or not.
| Cliffs, Sagres Portugal |
| Navigational device Sagres Portugal, possibly associated with navigational school of Prince Henry |
| Fort of Sagres, purported location of School of Henry the Navigator |
Enter Christopher Columbus. His interest was in sailing west across the Atlantic to Asia. Portugal saw some basic flaws in this plan ( more about that in another post) and would not support him. Spain did and the rest is history.
It has been claimed that Columbus trained at the Sagres school of Henry the Navigator. There is no proof that he was ever a student of its rigorous curriculum, but he was influenced by the climate of the intensive Portuguese exploration of the time and its advanced maritime knowledge.
Henry did not spend his time in the courts of Lisbon, but in Sagres and the great monasteries of Portugal's Estremadura region, to the north. Henry died in Sagres and his tomb is in the Batalha Monastery.
| Baltalha Monastery, Portugal |
| Tomb of Henry the Navigator, Batalha Monastery, Portugal |
A completely unique twist on this ancient practice is still found in Nandaime Nicaragua on the Wednesday before Easter. I had the privilege of viewing (and, unanticipatedly, feeling) his event first-hand. Here is this link to the article.
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2016/04/taking-hit-holy-wednesday-in-nandaime.html
| Lighted image of Guadalupe, Akumal MX |
In 2020 and 2021 all activities in Mexico, including religious ones, were limited because of the pandemic. This year they have mostly returned to their pre-covid form, including the feast of Guadalupe patron saint of Mexico. There are some new regulations such as the requirement to wear masks inside Guadalupe's main basilica in Mexico City, but the traditional observances are back. The return of this beloved celebration is expected to draw record crowds, which does pose logistical problems, as laid out in these two articles.
The period right before December 12, the feast day of Guadalupe is a spiritually intense as well as busy one, as pilgrims rush to reach their destinations by the night of December 11.
| Car of a Guadalupe pilgrim in Yucatán |
| Guadalupe pilgrims at a stop along route in Quintana Roo, MX |
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2017/12/the-race-for-guadalupe.html
Building Sawdust Carpets, Antigua Guatemala
| Procession, Antigua Guatemala |
| Good Friday Procession, Leon Nicaragua |
| Sawdust Carpet under construction, Leon Nicaragua |
The Feast of Guadalupe, the celebration of the country's patron saint, is a national holiday in Mexico. Although nearly everyone has heard of Guadalupe, the days that make up her celebration are less known outside of Mexico. The days right before December 12, the actual date of the celebration, are filled prayer and activity as Guadalupe pilgrims rush to reach their destinations. Last year along with most other public celebrations, Guadalupe celebrations were
The EU recently decided to welcome back US travelers this summer, if they are vaccinated. The invitation is enticing, but digging deeper there is a lot of complexity as the following article spells out.
Having recently traveled to Mexico, I can share my own experiences. First off I was not traveling there for pleasure; I had property that needed looking after. Plus the area to which I traveled is familiar to me. Despite this I normally would manage to have a wonderful time there and explore to my heart's content.
This trip felt different. It was still my tropical paradise, the same in many ways, yet different.
The time between the Feast of Guadalupe on December 12 and the arrival of the biblical Three Kings on the Feast of Très Reyes (January 6),has evolved into a non-stop alcohol-fueled fiesta known as the Guadalupe-Reyes Marathon. You can read about this "event' and its origins at:
https://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.com/2020/01/a-20th-century-institution-guadalupe.html
If you personally, would like to do some Mexican-style imbibing this holiday season, here are a few recipes to brighten your celebrations. https://mexiconewsdaily.com/mexicolife/rompope-ponche-navideno/
Saludos!